As a former vegetarian driven back to meat eating by a chronic lack of quality and variety, particularly in restaurants, I approached Zilli Green with some trepidation. The 100% vegetarian venture from celebrity restaurateur Aldo Zilli, the Soho eaterie has drawn mixed reviews since it opened, apparently failing to match up to its ambition to be a quality accessible veggie establishment in the heart of the West End.

First impressions are good - lying just yards from Theatreland, the restaurant exterior looks refined, with a neat terrace and clean, bright decor. At the start of the peak dinner period, the restaurant is lively but not overcrowded - dropping in for a meal here is entirely possible even though we’re in the centre of town -whilst service is quick and friendly. The menu seems to balance fresh and healthy ingredients in familiar, appetising recipes. The question is whether the food can deliver on this promise.

The starters we order - mezze and tempura - are certainly well prepared if reminiscent of a veggie starter at a dinner party. Happily the main courses offer both quality and originality. The chimichangas filled with sweet potato are delicious, and would be a welcome addition to any menu, vegetarian or otherwise. As a whole, the mains offer a range of classic dishes, from casseroles to burgers, each adding a twist without sacrificing quality. Served straight out of the oven with hand towels, so you never have to worry about food being pre-prepared!
Dessert offers some ingenious twists on popular puddings, most notably a vegan tiramisu made with tofu. It’s a fitting end to an impressive meal from a restaurant that has received a surprisingly poor press. Well placed, reasonably priced and offering an inventive yet familiar menu, Zilli Green fills an obvious gap in the vegetarian market that has long been overlooked. It’s a welcome addition to the array of restaurant choices in the West End of London.